Art of the Cut: Candlelight to Precision
Every diamond carries a memory of heat and pressure deep within the Earth, and of the hands that shaped its light. Over time, the way we cut and understand diamonds has evolved, reflecting changes in craft, culture, and technology. What began as an art guided by intuition and candlelit workshops has grown into a discipline shaped by precision and optical science. Yet the heart of the story stays the same. People continue to search for beauty within the most enduring of stones. At JB, we believe that choosing a diamond is not really about old or new. It is about finding the one that feels right for you.
In the 1700s and 1800s, diamonds were cut entirely by hand. Cutters worked in natural or candlelight and relied on trained instinct rather than strict measurements. Many developed their own stylistic habits, some subtle and some noticeably unconventional. As a result, each diamond emerged with its own personality. The Old Mine cut carried a soft cushion profile and a gentle glow. The Old European cut introduced a rounder and brighter face. Early Peruzzi stones experimented with new facets and helped shape the foundations of future cutting styles. No two were exactly alike. They felt warm, human, and full of character.
As technology advanced, the craft changed. The Industrial Revolution brought new tools, and in 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky defined proportions that guided cutters toward optimal symmetry and light performance. The modern round brilliant cut emerged from this shift. It reflects light in a clear and consistent way and creates a crisp, bright sparkle that many people love. Each facet is placed at a precise angle so that light enters the stone, moves through the pavilion, and returns through the crown in a way that maximizes brilliance. Modern cutting encourages light to travel in near right angles that heighten intensity and create a vivid internal glow. Antique diamonds tend to offer a softer and deeper radiance, while modern brilliants shine with a sharper and more vibrant clarity.
At JB, our work is not about choosing sides between old and new. It is about helping each client discover what speaks to them. Some fall in love with the quiet, romantic glow of an antique diamond. Others prefer the bold brightness of a modern cut. Many are drawn to stones shaped by independent cutters who allow the natural form of the rough to guide their decisions. These pieces often feel playful, personal, and wonderfully individual. Alongside beauty and feeling, we also believe in thoughtful guidance when it comes to long-term value. When clients ask us about investment, our advice often leans toward antique diamonds. Over time, these stones tend to hold their value more steadily, and in many cases depreciate less than modern cuts. One reason is rarity. Antique diamonds were shaped by hand, in limited numbers, and no two are ever truly the same. Today’s market, by contrast, is filled with highly standardized stones, cut to identical proportions and produced in far greater supply. As with most things, abundance can soften value, while rarity preserves it. An antique diamond carries not only history and character, but also a quiet resilience born from its uniqueness.
Our process begins with sourcing. When we look for stones, we pay close attention to how each one feels. Some seem calm and mysterious. Others seem lively and open. Their differences matter because they help us imagine the story each stone might carry and the person it may resonate with. Sourcing is emotional for us. We hold a piece of the earth and consider its future life. We choose with intention because we never want a diamond to feel industrial or anonymous. We want each stone to feel like a true match for its wearer. This is why individuality, character, and connection mean so much to us. Your diamond should feel like you, not like a product shaped from a mold.
Whether your eye is drawn to the soft candlelit glow of an antique cut, the clear radiance of a modern brilliant, or the charm of a hand cut stone with a touch of whimsy, the right diamond is the one that resonates with your sense of beauty. From early workshops to contemporary studios, from untouched earth to cherished hands, the journey of a diamond is a story of transformation. Each stone reminds us of what lasts. Connection, story, feeling, and the moment when you discover the piece that feels as if it was waiting for you.
